
Hugh, I'm your number one fan. Or at least I thought I was until I watched Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's latest Chicken Out series on Channel 4. For those of you who don't know Hugh is the writer, broadcaster and cook behind the River Cottage series, a series that he has expertly turned into an ever growing business empire. Unlike many others who accuse him of double standards over his growing business and his portrayal as a lowly small holder I actually admire him for what he has managed to archive. To be honest I think a lot of people are harbouring many a sour grape.
The Chicken Out campaign started by Hugh (and probably his advisers/Channel 4) was designed to highlight the plight of the intensively farmed Chicken by trying to get his local town of Axminister to become the first free-range town in the UK. Now I'm not denying that free range Chickens live a better life than their intensively reared friends but I did have a bit of a problem trying to understand what Hugh was trying to achieve through the program. So it seems did the residents of Axminster. The series started well enough Hugh set up an experiment to compare the two methods of Chicken production side by side along with some interesting facts about the Chicken Industry. An industry that seems to be a very paranoid and secretive which just adds to the assertion that their methods are dodgy, inhumane and wasteful.
In my opionion it was at this point the programme lost track. It became clear that Hugh hadn't a clue about the average family income and the pressure that income is under to put food on the table. The inclusion of footage of his new shop in the town just added to the growing feeling that he was doing this as a piece of self promotion or a publicity stunt. One of the funniest parts of the programme was when a rumour started going around that Hugh was selling Chickens at £22 pounds each from his shop. He declared this vastly inflated but declined to reveal the actual price (which was probably high).
My biggest quibble with the show however was with the final result. I think 60 ish percent of all chickens bought that week from the participating outlets were free range and therefore Axminster was declared free-range and the campaign a success. Even Hugh admitted that this was massivly missleading as the sample size was so small and didn't include breaded chicken, ready meals etc. I'd also have been interested to find out the total cost of the project. It would have been interesting to have seen the financial figures behind both methods of production.
I do applaud Hugh for at least making a stance but in this instance I don't think he succeeded in getting his point accross. And also what was with all the swearing. It was like he'd developed tourettes. If you missed it you can probably check it out on 4OD but I haven't checked to see if it's on there and the
Chicken Out site can be found here.